For those of you who have no lives of your own and actually care about this family's narrative, we got out of quarantine a week ago and have already spent countless hours at the beach and the pool. The kids are sun-burned and my bed is sandy.
We live on the third floor of an apartment building with four floors, 16 units, and lots of Jews. We're in a neighborhood called Tochnit Lamed in the northern part of Tel Aviv, just over a mile from the beach, though of course luck would have it that there's an abandoned airport smack dab between us and the water.
There's a park with playgrounds next to our apartment building, the local public school is next to the park, and the "Country," which is what Israelis call private rec centers, is next to the school. So basically everything we need for my children to become below average students and athletes is all within 100 meters.
At either end of our block, there are small, super expensive grocery stores, an ice cream shop, a hair salon, and a café known for its "burekas," the ubiquitous Israeli phyllo dough filled with cheese. Yes, I had to ask the Boss how to describe "burekas," and no, I haven't been to any of these bougie enterprises.
I'm teaching at an international boarding school in a place called HaKfar HaYarok (the Green Village). It's a youth village with a bunch of schools, agricultural centers, and stray cats. My students are from all over the world and incredibly impressive, though not as impressive as the abundance of peacocks strolling the grounds. I'm teaching on Zoom for now, but the plan is to be in-person once all the students arrive and finish quarantine. And then a week after that someone will get COVID and we'll go back to Zoom.
The Boss will continue to work remotely two evenings a week, though she just had a week of vacation which felt nothing like vacation. More on this below.
The kids have made some friends and are in full chill mode. They've forgotten how to keep a schedule, how to eat in public, and how to read. They start school next week, when at least three of them will come home crying on the first day because they realize there's no going back.
So you'd think with the warm weather, no school, and no quarantine that we'd have some freedom in this new land. Think again.
As you may remember, we quarantined for the first 11 days at the Boss' aunt and uncle's apartment. When we moved to our own apartment for the final few days, we experienced freedom for a fleeting moment during the glorious 20-minute drive: Broosevelt looked out the window and asked, "Why is there so many things in Israel?"
We arrived to the apartment, however, and that false sense of freedom disappeared. As we moved all of our stuff inside from the car, I couldn't even leave a bag unattended on the sidewalk. Israelis aren't down with that. Ya know, terrorism.
So we climbed the 50ish steps to our no-balcony domicile and spent the next 72 hours staring out the window, unpacking our 24 pieces of luggage, deciding where the sheets and towels should go, and putting up hooks. At least the view is decent (see below).
We are overwhelmed with appointments. Tuesday, we went to the Ministry of the Interior to get our identity cards. Wednesday, we went to the bank so we can have some money. Yesterday, we went to the Ministry of Absorption to sign up for health insurance and other slow-moving, semi-socialist, bloated-bureaucracy type things. I miss America and its failed capitalist paradise.
The heat here is oppressive. Every Israeli I meet can't wait to tell me that this is the most mild August in recent memory, but when it's 88 and humid during the day and 82 and humid at night, it doesn't feel mild. I shower three times a day.
Clearly our children don't feel free. There have been a lot of bed-wettings in the last few days. I don't wanna name any names, but Broosevelt's stock has really dropped.
We don't have freedom to spend money how we want. At a restaurant the other day, the Boss and her cousin were discussing how much tip to give and, in typical Israeli fashion, the waiter was not only closely listening to the conversation, but also offered critical feedback when he didn't like the agreed-upon tip percent: "Ha shirut lo haya tov?" ("The service wasn't good?")
We have no physical freedom in our apartment. My kids are used to running and jumping and screaming and yelling and wrestling and crying because we have always been spoiled single-family home-owners. The day after we moved in to our apartment, the doorbell rang, and Shirli (SHEER-lee), our downstairs neighbor, politely told us to stfu. Turns out that Shirli is a hippie who studied at the world-famous hippie meditation center, Naropa, in Boulder, Colorado. Now she does pressure point massage and needs absolute quiet when her clients come. She certainly doesn't need the "earthquake" (Shirli 2020) that my kids have created. Despite the anonymity of this blog, I'm unable to share my honest feelings about Shirli with you, but I feel sad that she will die of unnatural causes in the next few weeks.
We can't say no to people who are being kind and welcoming. Our neighbors in the apartment upstairs have three girls about my kids' age, and they invite us to hang out at the park with them every day. I'm glad my kids are making friends and playing outside til' after dark, but maybe they could eat an actual dinner instead of just chips and maybe the weirdly skinny neighbor dad has done a lot of heroin.
Social engagements with the Boss' family are constant. The day after quarantine ended, we drove to Jerusalem to have a shabbat picnic at the park with the Boss' mom (Doris), dad, aunt, cousins, and maternal grandfather (Saba, age 95). It's cool; it's not like I moved to Israel to meet new people and explore new things.
I mean, was it interesting to hear about how the Boss' paternal grandfather lived in the United States in the 1950s and brought back information to Israel regarding the "automation of heavy water," thereby helping Israel get nukes? Was it fascinating to learn more about how Saba escaped the Nazis in Czechoslovakia in the 1930s and fought in multiple wars before and after Israel became a state? Yeah I guess all that's cool, but, like, did either of them win Most Improved Player in the YMCA basketball league when he was 12?
I give the Boss credit because she doesn't even pretend to have any freedom right now. The washer and dryer are tiny, so she does two loads of laundry every day. She drove an hour to get the car we're leasing. She has already gone to the local mall twice to buy ridiculous, yet needed, items like measuring cups and mattress protectors. She has been to the kids' school four times and the over-priced super markets a bunch because the milks they sell here are too small for my lactose-desperate little monsters.
She's on the phone every second: Israel's nickname is Startup Nation because it forces people like the Boss to get an App for everything: parking, the beaches, taxis, food delivery, gas, the gate to the parking lot below our apartment, and, most embarrassingly, the iRobot: the wildly expensive, autonomous disk that vacuums our carpets and sweeps and mops our floors. The machines have taken control.
Panini loves restrictions and is thriving. Panini knows she can't speak English to all the tweens she's meeting, so her Hebrew has taken off. Panini has embraced the metric system and finally baked a half-decent cookie cake. Panini knows the water is rough and the undertow is strong, so she goes out just deep enough to feel some danger but not too much. Panini knows the parks here don't have bathrooms, so she pees in the bushes when necessary. Of all my weak children, Panini is Most Likely to Succeed.
After nearly imploding during quarantine, OG thinks she is now free because she has no idea that when school starts next week, she'll barely understand her teacher, no one in her class will speak English to her, and she can't read, write, or speak Hebrew. The other day, Broosevelt wanted to play with some boys he saw on the nearby basketball court, so OG used her charm to get the local Israeli boys to include my little immigrant son in their game. Socially manipulating 6- and 7-year old boys is one thing; dealing with pre-pubescent 9- and 10-year old girls is another. The rude awakening is coming.
Broosevelt has been completely stripped of any and all freedom by members of the female persuasion. At home, he has no choice but to play with his three sisters. At the park, he plays with his sisters and their female friends. His incredible father does his best to make young Broosevelt a strong, sensitive man, but Broosevelt spends too much time looking for Mommy, unpacking and repacking his school supplies in his backpack, and explaining why he needs to wear a swim shirt in the water at all times. He is desperate for genuine male bonding, and though he has spoken a total of two sentences in Hebrew in the three weeks we've been here, I think the start of school will be the end of his subjugation by the female species and the beginning of his personal growth. His Hebrew will explode, he'll wrestle with other little dudes, and he'll finally become the young man his father no longer hopes he can become.
Boni could be living in the Warsaw Ghetto and would still feel free. She wears whatever clothes she wants whenever and wherever she wants. She eats food around the clock. She plays mostly with little kids but frequently demands that big kids entertain her. She practices piano or doesn't practice piano. She doesn't speak Hebrew. She stays up way past her bedtime or falls asleep on the floor before dinner. She eats her frozen yogurt over a period of three days. She is free.
Freedom, or lack thereof, means nothing to me. I mock those without freedom. I teased my paperwork-averse Romanian colleague about how the oppressive bureaucracies behind the Iron Curtain clearly traumatized him, and he responded with something about his dad spending three years in a forced labor camp. I apologized but didn't mean it.
I thrive in all conditions. I complete every household chore with the Swiss army knife I wisely packed. People speak English to me not because my Hebrew is bad but because they know I am so fun to speak English with. People at work said I missed a meeting with students at 14:15, but I said, "Well I want my students to develop their independence and anyway 14:15 looks just like 4:15."
Saul respects his readers, so if you have questions that need answering or topics you would like to hear more about, comment below. Much love to all of you.